Fencing a plot in Czechia 2026: which fence to choose and cost per metre

A finished fence — posts, concrete footings, infill and installation — costs from CZK 1,500 per running metre excluding VAT in the Czech Republic in 2026. What you finally pay depends mainly on the infill type, height, any plinth wall and the terrain; gates, pedestrian gates and the power supply to them are priced separately. For a family house the combination that works best is a smarter fence on the street side and a cheaper, practical fence along the sides and back. Below: how to work out the cost, a comparison of fence types, the rules for building and a checklist.

How to work out the cost

Fencing is priced per running metre (Czech: běžný metr, bm) — one metre of fence length including posts and infill. The total is built up like this:

  1. Fence length in running metres — section by section, because the street side and the garden usually get different types.
  2. Price per metre by type — from CZK 1,500 for the simplest types, considerably more for masonry fences and gabions.
  3. Gates — priced per piece, including posts, hardware and an opener if wanted.
  4. Plinth wall or gravel boards — on a slope and along the street these change the price most.
  5. Power to the gate — bell, video entry, gate motor, driveway lighting.
  6. Boundary survey — if the boundary markers are unclear, you pay a surveyor.

Example: a 20 × 40 m plot has a perimeter of 120 m. Even if the whole perimeter is in the simplest category, the fence line alone starts at 120 × CZK 1,500 = CZK 180,000, plus a driveway gate and a pedestrian gate. If you put 20 m of a smarter fence on the street and panels on the remaining 100 m, price 20 m of the dearer type separately and 100 m from CZK 1,500 — that is from CZK 150,000 for the sides and back.

Prices for all external works, including paving and decking, are in our 2026 construction price list.

Fence types compared

Fence typePrivacyMaintenanceBest usePrice level
PVC-coated chain-link meshnoneminimalrear and side boundaries of large plotslowest
3D welded mesh panelslow, privacy strips can be addedminimalgarden, sides, simple street fencelow
Timber fence on steel postsmedium to highrepaint every few yearsrural and traditional housesmedium
Steel slats or picketsdepends on gaps, up to fullminimalstreet side of a modern housemedium to higher
Precast concrete panel fencehighminimalprivacy, noisy streetmedium
Masonry fence with infilldepends on infilllowformal street frontagehigher
Gabionshighminimalslopes, retaining, noisehigher
Hedgehigh after a few yearsregular trimmingalongside mesh or panelslow, but slow

Price levels are relative. The exact price per metre depends on height, manufacturer and terrain; only an itemised quote for your sections gives a reliable comparison.

Which fence for your house: recommendations by situation

There is no single best fence. Depending on the house and plot, these combinations work well:

SituationRecommendation
Modern new build, level plotmasonry piers or a plinth with steel slats on the street, 3D panels on the sides and back
Older or rural housetimber infill on steel posts, mesh with a hedge in the garden
Busy street, privacy neededprecast concrete or gabions on the street, panels elsewhere
Sloping plotstepped plinth, gabions or block walls; anything retaining soil only with a structural engineer
Dog or small childrenpanels with gravel boards, self-closing pedestrian gate, no gap under the gates
Tight budgetpanels all round with good-quality gates; upgrade the street side later

The fence in front of the house

The street fence is the face of the house and also the most technical section: it holds the driveway gate, pedestrian gate, letterbox, bell and often the electricity and gas meter cabinets.

  • Appearance: match the material or colour to the facade, windows or roof. Masonry piers with slatted or timber infill are the most common choice for new houses.
  • Transparency: a solid fence gives privacy but shades the front garden and blocks your view when pulling out. Slats with gaps are the compromise.
  • Height: the municipality may limit it in the zoning plan or local regulations, along with the street fence material.
  • Gate: a swing gate needs level ground to open over. A cantilever sliding gate needs no track but does need a clear stretch of fence beside the opening to slide along — roughly one and a half times the opening width.
  • Driveway width: at least 3 – 3.5 m for a car; turning in from a narrow street is easier with a wider opening.
  • Electrics: lay ducts for the bell, video entry, gate motor and lighting while the fence is being built, not afterwards.

The area behind the gate is usually the next investment. How to choose and lay paving that takes car traffic is covered in our article on concrete block paving.

Garden fences and fences between neighbours

On side and rear boundaries, function and cost decide. Most people use 3D panels or mesh, sometimes with concrete gravel boards that stop animals getting under and make mowing easier. For privacy on a terrace, a short solid section is often enough while the rest stays see-through.

If the fence stands exactly on the boundary, agree with your neighbour in advance and in writing: where it runs, what it will be, who pays and who maintains it. If boundary markers are missing or disputed, have a surveyor set out the line. That is cheaper than moving a finished fence.

Permits and local rules

A fence of normal height between neighbouring plots generally does not need a permit. A fence along the street — next to a public road or public space — and taller fences may need one, and the municipality often sets the height, transparency or material. Rules vary from one municipality to the next, so check with the building authority (stavební úřad) before ordering materials. For a new house, the fence is usually part of the house design.

Footings, posts and plinth walls

  • Posts are concreted into footings below frost depth, which is about 80 cm in local conditions. A shallow post gets pushed up by frost and the fence leans.
  • Gravel boards under panels and mesh keep the fence line above ground and stop digging under.
  • Plinth walls and masonry fences need a strip foundation, just like a house wall. On a slope the plinth is stepped bay by bay so the infill stays level.
  • Masonry piers and low walls are most often built from concrete formwork blocks (ztracené bednění), reinforced and filled with concrete. The differences between block types are summarised in concrete formwork blocks compared.
  • Movement joints: a long masonry wall needs them, otherwise it will crack.

Step-by-step build

  1. Boundary setting-out — by a surveyor or from confirmed markers.
  2. Local rules — height, transparency and permit regime for the street fence.
  3. Type per section — street, sides, back, driveway gate and pedestrian gate.
  4. Utilities along the line — statements from utility owners so digging does not hit a cable or pipe.
  5. Digging and concreting — post footings, plus a strip foundation for any plinth wall.
  6. Plinth or gravel boards — on line and following the slope.
  7. Posts and infill — once the concrete has cured, fit panels, slats or timber.
  8. Gates and electrics — adjustment, opener, bell, lighting.
  9. Finishing — landscaping along the fence, spoil removal and clean-up.

Common mistakes

  • Building without a confirmed boundary. A dispute with the neighbour ends with the fence being rebuilt.
  • Shallow posts. After the first winter the fence waves and the gate will not shut.
  • No ducts. The gate cable later has to be pushed under finished paving.
  • A sliding gate with nowhere to go. On a narrow plot there is no room to slide it.
  • Comparing prices without scope. A per-metre price without posts, concrete or installation is only cheap on paper.
  • Solid fences ignoring wind. A large solid surface in an exposed spot needs stronger posts and footings.

Checklist before ordering

  • The plot boundary is clear and agreed with the neighbours.
  • Local rules for the street fence are confirmed.
  • Section lengths are measured and each has a fence type.
  • The quote includes posts, concreting, infill, installation and spoil removal.
  • Gates, opener and electrics are separate lines.
  • The driveway is resolved: width, gate type, paved area.
  • Utility owners have confirmed what, if anything, runs along the fence line.

FAQ

How much does fencing cost per metre in Czechia? A finished fence costs from CZK 1,500 per running metre excluding VAT. Masonry fences with infill and gabions cost considerably more; gates are priced separately.

What fence should go in front of the house? One that matches the house and keeps the driveway visible: most often masonry piers or a plinth with slatted or timber infill, or 3D panels with a gravel board for simpler houses.

Do I need a permit for a fence? A fence of normal height between neighbours usually does not. A street fence or a taller fence may, and the municipality can set its height and appearance. Check with the building authority.

How deep should fence posts be concreted? Below frost depth, about 80 cm. Gate posts and solid fences get larger footings.

What is the cheapest fencing? Mesh or 3D panels. Even then, the price of a finished fence includes posts, concrete and installation, not just materials.

We build fences, gates and paved areas in Prague and the Central Bohemian Region — on their own or as the final stage of a new build. Send us the section lengths and the type of fence you have in mind and we will prepare a free itemised quote. Use the calculator below for an indicative price of a house including fencing.

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